Tuesday, April 15, 2014

What are the food trucks serving these days?

On Saturday, I was one of a dozen volunteers who judged the Charlotte Food Fight, a roundup of food trucks in SouthEnd that raised money for the American Cancer Society's Relay for Life. Here's a little video and pictures of the dishes, made with help from my videographer assistant (and husband) Wayne Hill: (One apology: I managed to miss a picture of the BiCol Express entry from Herban Legend, a Phillipine-inspired dish with soft pork, ginger rice and a coconut milk sauce. Blame it on my addled head after eating all of these on a sultry Saturday afternoon.)

Thursday, April 10, 2014

RIP to eGullet founder Steven Shaw

Everyone who is remembering Steven Shaw, the proto-blogger and founder of several websites, including eGullet, is touching on his abilities as a food writer. And that is certainly true. Shaw, who died unexpectedly Tuesday, reportedly of a heart attack, was indeed a strong and thoughful writer.

But I keep thinking of Steven as a teacher.

In its heyday, eGullet, the web-thread site he founded with Jason Perlow at the beginning of the blogging boom, was like hanging around the classroom of that really cool teacher in high school. Even if you weren't taking the guy's class, you would go over there before school because some of your friends said it was fun. And you'd meet people who weren't in your usual circle. The football jock might find something in common with the science nerd, and the girls who wanted life to be about more than being girls would find people who took them seriously.

That's what Shaw's eGullet was in the beginning: The place where all kinds of people -- professional writers and beginning writers, interested amateurs and people who just loved arguing about food -- would stop by and toss out ideas, grabbing threads from the different boards to weigh in or disagree.

I was already a newspaper food writer in the 2002-2004 years when eGullet was cranking up. Some of my print-journalism colleagues avoided the online sites because the debate was so unbridled and occasionally hostile. But I liked eGullet from the beginning. It was a place to see new thoughts crinkling up and catching fire. It was also the place I met special people like Dean McCord of Raleigh, still the best cooking-lawyer I know, and David Leite, who later created the visionary website Leite's Culinaria. There was even some crazy guy named Bourdain who had just written a book about working in restaurant kitchens.

On a trip to New York in those years, Steven picked me up in his SUV, his big bulldog Momo panting in the backseat, and took me across the George Washington Bridge on a terrific food tour of New Jersey, from a Hong Kong-style dim sum palace to the White Manna and the biggest Asian superstore I have ever seen. Before we parted back in New York, he insisted on driving me up to the Cloisters to see where Manhattan narrows to the tip of an actual island, a view he wanted me to see just because he thought it was neat.

And that was really Steven: He wrote about restaurants and food as a way of teaching, I think. He liked to find ways to show people the world because he thought it was a fascinating place. The last time I saw him a couple of years ago, he actually was teaching, leading a class on food blogging at the French Culinary Institute. I stopped by for lunch, and we talked about how online food writing had evolved so quickly.

I'm sorry he's left the world so darn early, and I'm crushed for his wife, Ellen, and their young son P.J. And I thank him, for teaching me to think about food writing, all writing, as more than just print stamped on paper.
PHOTO: Seriouseats.com.

Wednesday, April 9, 2014

More about recycling and food

In my column this morning on the whys of food-trash recycling, there wasn't enough room to list all the Allowed/Not Allowed rules. In case you don't have a copy of the county's brochure, here's the lists. And of course, if you live in another county, you need to check your local policy. Recycling centers vary widely because they have different equipment and different arrangements for what they gather for reuse:

Allowed in Mecklenburg County: Aerosol cans, aluminum cans, cardboard, glass bottles/jars, juice boxes, milk and juice cartons, paper, pizza boxes, plastics 1-5 & 7 (look inside the recycling symbol for the number), spiral paper cans and steel/tin cans.

Not allowed: Appliances, auto parts, batteries, bottle caps/lids, bulky waste, ceramics, clothing, electronics, garbage, light bulbs, mini blinds, paper plates/napkins, plastics #6, plastic bags, plastic food trays/cups, pots/pans, shredded paper, styrofoam, wire hangers.

Also in today's Food coverage:

Do you know about the Wok Wednesday world? It started in the Triangle around Grace Young's book "Stir-Fry to the Sky's Edge," and it's part of a growing number of online groups that come together to cook and share experiences about particular cookbooks. (If anyone is gathering about my book "Bourbon," you probably shouldn't risk Tweeting while you're drinking.)

Passover arrives at sundown Monday, which means it's time to brush up on your matzo-ball skills.

All in favor of lawn-mower beers, raise your cans: Daniel Hartis says there are worthy local entries in the gulpable category.

Our annual list of Pick Your Own farms will run April 23. Farmers, let us hear from you.

It was only a matter of time before someone opened an All-Bacon Restaurant. And it's close to us.

If it's spring, it's time for asparagus. Suzanne Havala Hobbs is keeping it healthy.

What's causing little holes in aluminum foil when you cover a cake?

And more recipes:
Gingery salmon for 2.
Retro Theater Steak With Mushrooms.

Tuesday, April 8, 2014

Go food trucking for a cause Saturday

Bring an appetite and some money to Saturday afternoon's Charlotte Food Fight, a food truck contest at the South End Food Truck Lot at Camden Road and East Park Avenue. The contest is from 3 to 7 p.m. and raises money for Relay for Life Charlotte, a cause from the American Cancer Society.

The trucks will compete in three categories: Chef's Choice, Mystery Ingredient and People's Choice. A $35 ticket gets you one item from each of the trucks, $7 gets you one thing from one truck, and $1 allows you to cast extra votes. There will also be live music.

The trucks: The Tin Kitchen, Herban Legend, Chrome Toaster, Wingzza, Gourmet Goombahs, Roaming Fork, Sal's Roadside Eatery, Juan Taco Truck, Sticks and Cones, Chef Street Bistro, KO Food Truck, OooWee BBQ and Southern Cake Queen.

Besides your own voting for People's Choice, there also will be official judges, including me,  chef Ron Ahlert of Community Cooking School of Charlotte, chef Alyssa Gorelick, Richard Guica of Meets & Eats Charlotte, Kelly Davis, Mary Cowx, Rance Adams, DJ Cassiday, Nikki Wolfe and Lucas Stretch.

Get details and buy tickets in advance here at Event Brite.  And if you're there, say hello and wish us luck -- that's a lot of eating to do.

Monday, April 7, 2014

Beer month and beer class in Charlotte

A few beer-related items, for the beer-centric among you:

While the state is celebrating N.C. Beer Month all through April, there are some events that are limited to Charlotte. The official Beer Month kickoff party is 7-10 p.m. Tuesday (yes, it's 8 days after the start of April) at Growler's Pourhouse in NoDa.  There's a Meet the Brewers Tap Takeover from 7-10 p.m. April 22 at VGBG Beer Hall, and the Louisiana Spring Fest at Old Mecklenburg on April 26. 

Different breweries also are taking over the visitor's bureau's Charlotte's Got A Lot Instagram account at various times all month. April 4-6 was Heist, April 11-13 is NoDa (expect seriously creative from those guys), April 18-20 is Triple C, and April 25-27 is Old Mecklenburg. 

And while you're thinking about beer, think about this:

Central Piedmont Community College has announced a new 10-hour course, The Craft of Craft Beer, a hands-on class in brewing. It will cover extract and all-grain brewing processes, ingredients and equipment, sanitation, fermentation and bottling. You'll also be able to return six weeks later to get a six-pack of the beer you bottle during the class. (You must be 21 to take the course, of course.) 

The class is $250 and will be offered on three dates: May 17, June 28 or July 26 at the Van Every building on the central campus. Details and sign-up: go here. 

Thursday, April 3, 2014

Talk, drink and read with me in Raleigh this weekend

The N.C. Literary Festival is taking off in Raleigh this weekend, and the "Savor the South" series will be a part of that.

On Friday night, the Raleigh hotspot The Oxford will hold a bourbon event, pairing chef Chris Hill's tasting menu of small plates with bourbon tastings in honor of my book, "Bourbon," my second book in the UNC Press series, along with "Pecans."

I've seen the menu and Hill has really gone to town with the idea. The plates and bourbon samples will range from $4.50 to $7 and include things like Heritage Farms pork belly with a vanilla-bourbon gastric served with Basil Hayden's 80-proof, and pimento cheese mousse with a bourbon-mushroom jelly served with Maker's 46.

The Oxford is at 319 Fayetteville St., and the bourbon event will go on from 8 to 10 p.m. I'll be there selling and signing books and talking about bourbon with anyone who wants to come by. Details:  www.oxfordraleigh.com. 

Next, on Saturday afternoon at 4:30 p.m., I'll moderate a panel with three of my fellow "Savor the South" authors, Andrea Weigl ("Pickles & Preserves"), Belinda Ellis ("Biscuits") and Debbie Moose ("Buttermilk" and the upcoming "Southern Holidays," coming out this fall).

We'll be in the Teaching and Visualization Room at the James B. Hunt Library at N.C. State University. Here's the details on the whole festival, including another panel planned Sunday on food writing:


The "Savor the South" series from UNC Press is a series of small books, each on a single slice of Southern food. There are eight books out now, out of a planned series of 24: Pecans, Buttermilk, Peaches, Tomatoes, Biscuits, Bourbon, Pickles & Preserves, and Okra, with Sweet Potatoes and Southern Holidays coming up this fall. And you've ever been around me, Andrea, Debbie or Belinda, you know we love to talk about anything involving Southern food and cooking. The panel should be a lively discussion. Please come by and join us.

Wednesday, April 2, 2014

Peabody for Vivian Howard, and other food news

In breaking news this morning (updated with Andrea Weigl's interview with Howard): "A Chef's Life," the PBS show about chef Vivian Howard and her restaurant, The Chef & the Farmer in Kinston, has won a Peabody Award. "A Chef's Life" also is nominated for a James Beard Award in the broadcast category.

The Peabody Awards are officially given out May 19 in New York, while the Beard Award winners in media will be announced in New York on May 2. "A Chef's Life" has been renewed for a second season, starting in early September, with a holiday special planned in December. The show is produced by Markay Media of Durham.

In one of my favorite food stories today, Charleston Post & Courier writer Hanna Raskin sent around a query on Twitter earlier this week about what they call a frozen cup of Kool-Aid in different areas of the country. The story that resulted is not only quirky, she uncovered fascinating information on the sale of frozen Kool-Aid as an entreprenurial activity in African-American neighborhood.

On the Observer's Food page today, we got to know Anthony "Wes" Wesley, the wine steward at the McNinch House in Fourth Ward. He's an unusual fellow in an unusual restaurant. You can see Jeff Siner's pictures and video along with my store.

Time is running out to line up your tickets for the every-other-year Charlotte Wine & Food Weekend. It's gained a nationwide reputation for excellent wine experiences, and the prices range from the $40 Vintner Tasting to $350 major-wine tastings.

Southern Season, the Chapel Hill-based "gourmet lifestyle store" (in the words of owner Clay Hamner) is drawing closer to finding a Charlotte spot.

And we have recipes up for:
e2's Roasted Oysters
Garlicky Roasted Broccoli.
Cannellini Ricotta Dip.
Shepherd's Pie for 2